Below you will find links to some amazing metal clay projects by some of the top metal clay artists in the world. Follow their instructions to recreate their work or use these projects and techniques to inspire you to create similar works or your own unique designs!
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Regal Bracelet by Hattie Sanderson
- 28 grams low fire silver clay
- Low fire silver clay paste
- HattieS™ Texture Mat Jewelry Shapes 1 (#52122)
- 2” sterling silver wire (16g)
- 4 fine silver bezel cups (5mm- #50757)
- 4 round cabochons (5mm)
- Assorted beads
- Bead wire
- Crimp beads
- Ceramic coffee mug
- Metal clay tools, HattieS®
- HattieS® No Stick (#52012)
- Bezel pusher
- Butane torch
- Pickle solution*
Apply HattieS® No Stick to the HattieS® Texture Mat.
Roll out a silver clay slab 5 playing cards thick. Place the slab over the texture mat design pictured here. Place 3 playing cards on either side of the clay slab and run the roller over the slab. By doing this, the raised texture will remain 5 cards thick and the recessed areas are 3 cards thick.
Place the textured slab on your work surface and trim the perimeter of the design using a needle tool. Carefully place the slab on a ceramic (non-porous) coffee mug that has been placed on its side. Dry the silver clay on the mug to give it a gentle curved shape.
Roll out a second slab of silver clay 5 playing cards thick and texture as above.
Place the textured slab on your work surface. Turn the slab side ways and trim the perimeter with a needle tool as pictured here. Place the clay slab on the side of the coffee mug to dry. Repeat this step until you have 4 matching slabs of dried silver clay.
File and sand all of the bone dry silver clay slabs. Use a pin vise drill with the largest bit to drill 3 holes in each of the matching silver clay slabs for beading (see photo for reference.) Drill a ¼” hole on the end of one of the components for latching the bracelet hook (see left end of the finished bracelet photo for reference.)
Use a needle tool to rough up the bottom side of the fine silver bezel cups to give them tooth. Attach the bezel cups to the silver clay using silver clay paste (see photo for placement.) Dry.
To create the center of the bracelet, paste a smaller slab of silver clay under each side of the large silver clay slab (use photo for reference.) Use the coffee mug as an armature to position and support the silver clay slabs as the paste dries. When the piece is totally dry, carefully remove it from the coffee mug armature and reinforce all of the joints on the back side of the silver clay with paste. Dry.
Place the silver clay slabs on fiber blanket or vermiculite support on a kiln shelf. Fire the pieces
in a kiln to 1650 for 1 hour for good strength.
While the pieces are firing, melt a ball on one end of the 16g sterling silver wire using a butane torch. Place the wire in pickle solution to remove the oxidation then rinse well*. Use pliers to form a shepherd’s hook for one end of the bracelet. On the opposite end of the hook, bend a small “j” shape in the end of the wire which will secure it in the silver clay.
Locate the fired silver clay slab that will be the bracelet end on the right side. Attach the shepherd’s hook to the back side of the unpolished white slab using low fire silver clay paste, syringe and/or small decorative slabs of fresh silver clay so that the “j” shape in the end of the wire will be captured in the silver clay. Dry. Fire this slab of clay to 1200 for 30 minutes.
Scratch brush, polish and patina the silver clay as desired.
Set cabochons in the bezel cups using a bezel pusher. Bead bracelet with your choice of beads using bead wire and crimp beads. The finished bracelet should be approximately 7” in length.
*If you do not have pickle solution, the oxidation on the sterling wire may be removed post firing using polishing papers.
Last updated on Tue, May 12, 2009 by Metal Clay Guru